Grimsby was the plan of the day, and at 0300 this morning I prised myself from my bunk and got myself dressed for sea.
At 0325 I cast off the pontoon and headed out through the remarkably tricky channel at Wells harbour. I pass the first marker post, but in the twilight, couldn’t make out the next tiny, unlit buoy, and ended up head the wrong side of it. I promptly ran up on the mud, albeit softly since I was goig slow, expecting something like this to happen in the darkness.
There was no drama in getting off. I put the outboard into reverse and wiggled it from side to side on full chat. This danced Kudu’s keels off the mud and back into the channel. I started ahead again, promising to be more vigilant. The rest of the lengthy channel passed without incidence, although by the time I got to the last three sets of port/starboard makers, the chop of the sand bars was making it very bumpy. I was told to expect a rough ride until the lead in buoy which is about a quarter mile offshore, but as I passed it, the motion of the boat changed little.
I hoisted sails and set off with one reef in the main and a few rolls in the genoa. Yarmouth coastguard issued a maritime safety information broadcast over the radio, which is essentially, the shipping forecast as you hear on Radio4 , but limited to local areas. The wind direction was as expected, but synopsis was terminated by the words “becoming six”. Great, a force 6. It’s not a gale, it’s not even something to particularly worry about, but it is a strong wind, and the sea was already very uncomfortable as it was. I didn’t want to be out there in a F6, but since I was at sea already, I pressed on.
After the forecast was issued over the radio I glanced at my wind instrument to see what sort of winds I was getting at that moment. 0.0 knots, it said. That’s not right, I thought as I looked up to the masthead. “oh bloody hell!” The annometer had fallen of the masthead instrument, so while I could still see the winds direction, I couldn’t tell how strong it was. This is no huge deal. Knowing the wind speed or direction on a screen is of no massive benefit that I’m aware of. Sure, it’d help me more quickly know how to trim the sails, but it’s nothing you can’t tell from a moments wind on your face. Experience hasn’t yet taught to to gauge it’s speed though.
Slightly annoyed that I was now without both wind and log (boat speed) instruments, I set the tiller pilot and went below to make a coffee. I prepared my mug and put the kettle on, before going back into the cockpit since sinbad was struggling a bit. Since repositioning him, he’s been much better, but still struggles with both steep seas and gusts, so in those conditions I only felt comfortable leaving him in command for a moment or two.
The next thing to disturb my day out was the stove. Due to the way it’s mounted, I couldn’t, when I fitted it last year, screw one of the gimbals to anything, so I bolted it to a piece of L shaped aluminium, and then stuck that down with a few strips of “no more nails”. Apparently this stuff is so strong that you don’t need to use nails. Apparently.
In fairness, it was. I actually cocked up up a little when I first stuck it down and I couldn’t remove it again to reposition it. It was well and truly stuck, and has been for the last 10 months. Today however, it decided that nails were indeed needed and just let go. The stove, and attached kettle of water, were swinging about the galley table and threatening all kinds of damage/spillage/fire. I switched it off, removed the stove from it’s good gimbal, and put it on the cabin sole with a sigh.
Great, I thought, that’s all I need. An early morning start without access to coffee. Heck, I can’t heat my supernoodle lunch either. To add to this, the sea was, for the first time ever, making me feel ill. I think it was the sea anyway, it could have been the early morning exercise and lack of caffeine and food. Regardless, morale was suffering on Kudu by now.
The nearly beam on sea was atrocious by this point and a new, well old problem reappeared. Some hefty weight in the starboard keel was moving freely as the boat got thumped latterly by the sea. It was no dull sound though, not a noise to put to the back of one’s mind. It was loud. Very loud, and sent shudders through the boat.
I had previously encountered this on the Deben bar and thought it was the lose lead trimming ballast, but had since presumed this problem was solved by packing them in tightly. Apparently it wasn’t the trimming ballast after all. It could only be the main ballast, which is encapsulated in GRP in the centre of the keels. I couldn’t get at these and the noise was so servere that I was genuinely worried about the integrity of the keel. Too much of this and it could potentially crack it and flood the boat. This thought did not help morale on board.
I looked at the chart plotter and the estimated time to just north of Skegness, which was still many hours away from Grimsby, but close enough to the shore to beach her if the worst should happen. I was 5 hours off. With this in mind I looked at the paper chart, and then then pilot book, and decided to run for Wainfleet, a small creek on the north shore of the Wash, near Gibraltar point. GPS estimated 4.5 hours.
I maintained this course for about half an hour before the shuddering got the better of me and I decided for a closer refuge. I swung the boat south and headed back to the south shore, towards Brancaster harbour, a short distance west from where I started in Wells.
When I was in wells I met a great chap called Max, who’s a volunteer for the local lifeboat crew. We had shared a few pints in the local pub and stories of the sea, and he was full of local knowledge to help me out. At about 6AM, I sent him a text message telling him my plans for Brancaster, and much to my surprise, I got a phone call a few moments later. Used to his RNLI pager, Max had developed the habit of waking to any sort of beeping noise, and my text message invoked his life savers autopilot. Sorry Max.
We discussed my plan and he suggested that given the wind direction I would be better anchoring closer to Wells in Holkam Bay. I peered at the chart and accepted his advice: It was more sheltered from the westerly.
I arrived at Holkam Bay about an hour and 15 minutes later, then dropped the anchor. The motion was still appalling, and the tide/wind combination still left me mostly beam on to the sea, which was still causing the lateral slamming that set the keel off. I put up with it for a while, but then could bear it no more. I left the anchor down but raised the sails and hove to. This totally calmed the motion of the boat, and I relaxed a little. Enough in fact, to rig my fishing rod and try for some mackrel, futile as it turned out to be.
I had to wait in Holkam Bay until it was safe, indeed possible, to get over the bar into Wells. Max suggested 12:45 would be the earliest he’s recommend, and that was still 5 hours away. I had had enough by now. I just wanted to be still and comfortable, so I waited a while to check we weren’t drifting on the anchor, then went to bed with my egg timer set for an hour. After an hour, I woke, killed the timer alarm, peered out the window, and repeated.
On the last wakening I was 30 minutes of safe entry time, and when I peered out the window I was slightly surprised. We had drifted right across the bay and were dangerously close to the breaking sand bar. I quickly organised myself and got on deck to start the engine and weigh the anchor.
It took almost thirty minutes to motor the relatively short distance to the lead in buoy for Wells harbour. This is an outer marker buoy that forms a safe point of departure to the first set of channel buoys. To the sides of it were sand banks. Hitting these could be catastrophic, so I was careful, very.
And then there I was, back on the same pontoon as I departed hours before. I was dismayed, but relieved, and went to see Rob, the chap who runs the local chandlers, for a chat. He swiftly perked up my day with a dose of seafarers comradery. Parts were located and solutions were suggested, and finally, he took me off to see Bob, the harbour master. Bob has very kindly offered to lift Kudu out of the water tomorrow so I can set about fixing the keel, and drop the mast to finally sort the VHF antenna out, as well as the wind instrument.
Things are looking up already, but I am now left with a distaste for the Wash which needs resolving. Tuesday looks good!


