It is a very handy thing to have a good relationship with your local chandlers.
I’ve just borrowed various bronze fittings to see if I can make up a solution to my bilge pump issue. If it’s workable, I buy what I need.
So, here it is…
So, in theory it’s ok but there are three problems.
- I don’t like all that heavy metal clinging on to the seacock. It just seems like a poor job.
- It creates a loop, so I’d need to fit non-return valves on each outlet to prevent pump straight back in to the bilges.
- To get the various fittings lines up, I can’t tighten them fully. I’m not plumber, but I’m guessing PTFE tape will sort this problem out?
What’s the verdict? I’m not ever so convinced. I might have a go at arc welding two bits of pipe together to make a much lighter t-piece out of stainless. I’ve still got the loop issue though, and no matter what solution I go for I think I’m going to need the non return valves.
I’m not convinced either. you could possibly use lock nuts plus PTFE to get it secure and sealed, but you still have a heavy lump swinging on the skin fitting. perhaps glass in a structure to support it, or better, have a section of hose leading away from the skin fitting and mount the T/Y piece somewhere secure – this is what I have.
A non-return valve is probably only necessary on the ‘lecy pump as a (manual) diaphagm pump has non-returners in it by nature. fit the valve near the pump and it’ll prevent the water remaining in the hose from flowing back into the bilge – until it gets a bit worn when it will simply allow the water to seep back slowly
p.s. don’t mess around trying to arc weld stainless – TIG all the way. just by the way – a custom made skin fitting is a sledgehammer to crack your wallet.
Get a Blakes! Seriously – I know of too many boats sunk by cheap skin fittings and gate valves.
I think that a Y fitting would be better than the 90 degree elbow you have.I think that as smooth a pipe run as possible is best to allow free flow of water out of the system.
Most manual bilge pumps have flap valves which in themselves are non return valves, therefore if you swap the fittings putting the electric above manual hosetail you will only need one non return valve, in the bilge next to the electric pump. Not much wrong with the basic setup though a timber pad glassed to the hull at the skin fitting would be nice